Earlier in the summer, Wun’s Tea Room restaurant and bar reopened its doors in the heart of Soho after the winter lockdown. The team spent lockdown creating new and exciting dishes so if you’ve been to Wun’s in the past, is definitely worth revisiting now. With seating now indoors and out, Wun’s reflects the atmosphere of Hong Kong’s open-air street cafes (dai pai dong). Read more about this restaurant in this reviews by Adrienne Fung.
A few weeks ago, I had the chance to visit Wun’s Tea Room & Bar for dinner. After a long hiatus from London’s restaurant scene due to lockdown, it was a real treat to be able to dine out again. Wun’s Tea Room & Bar comes from the husband and wife team, Alex Peffly and Z He, behind the much loved Bun House. A lot of the influence comes from his upbringing in Southern China and adoration of Cantonese cuisine.
Having spent quite a lot of time in Hong Kong myself, visiting my family and immersing myself in the local dining scene, I was very excited to visit Wun’s Tea Room & Bar. This past year was the first one in a while I wasn’t able to make the annual trip over to Hong Kong so a meal at Wun’s felt particularly special.
The restaurant sits on a bustling corner of Soho at the intersection of Greek St and Old Compton St. As you look around, every street in bird’s eye view is filled with tables full of happy revelers enjoying a pint and bite in the sun. We snagged a table outside to take part in the action.
The first thing that hits you is the delicious scent wafting from inside the restaurant. You already know there is magic happening in the kitchen. The interior of the café upstairs is reminiscent of colonial Hong Kong with geometric flooring, vintage lights, exposed brick and a giant red neon sign of a Chinese character hung in the middle of the restaurant. I was told the sign was newly installed that day and displayed the Cantonese word for “drunk”. This set the scene for where we were and I was already a fan. As you take a detour downstairs, you land in the basement speakeasy-esque bar. Dim lights, velvet drapes, dark corners and more neon signs gives the downstairs drink den an old school, prohibition atmosphere. This is the type of bar I’d want to cozy up in on a winter’s eve.
Given its namesake and clear devotion to their drink service, we couldn’t start dinner without a cocktail first. We tried the Marigold & Lemongrass (gin, lychee infused baijiu, lemongrass tea, jasmin syrup) and Wun’s Martini (Barentsz Gin, dry rice vermouth). Many of the cocktails feature Asian flavours not found at many other bars in town. Five spice bitters, pandan syrup, and lychee soda are just a few unique ingredients you’ll find scattered across the cocktail menu. Not only do the cocktails taste great but the presentation is also thoughtful. The Marigold & Lemongrass, for example, is served in a delicate teapot alongside a comically small tea cup just big enough to hold one sip.
After whetting our appetites with the cocktails, it was onto the main event. We ordered Friggitelli Peppers with Sichuan lime salt, Cured Trout Tartare with dan dan dressing and Hand-dived Scallop with wild garlic butter & glass noodles to start. All three dishes were stellar.
We loved the Sichuan lime salt on the peppers which gave it a lovely citrus umami kick. The tartare served alongside crispy wonton chips was fresh and well balanced. Whatever is in that dan dan dressing is a winner.
Friggitelli peppers with Sichuan lime salt and cured trout tartare with dan dan dressing
The scallop, perhaps the most classic Cantonese dish of the three, reminded me of the type of dish I’d order in Hong Kong at a typical seafood dinner. Normally, you shop for your seafood at the wet market then bring the goods upstairs to the restaurants where they cook everything to order. It’s one of my favourite dining experiences! I was happy to see this dish on the menu paying homage to a humble but incredibly delicious tradition.
Hand dived scallop with wild garlic butter & glass noodles
For mains, we ordered Wun’s famous Iberico Char Siu with spiced sugar skin and the Beef cheek and bone marrow claypot rice with pickled shallots.
Wun’s famous Iberico Char Siu
As an added treat, our waiter brought out an order of fried chicken with Kung Pao butter, one of their newer dishes on the menu, to try. The fried chicken would make for the perfect beer snack. It’s a tasty, crowd pleasing dish but definitely not the most special item on the menu. Nevertheless, no one will be upset you ordered it including yourself.
Fried chicken with Kung Pao butter
The Char Siu, on the other hand, is Wun’s most famous and beloved plate of food. Admittedly, I had already seen this dish plastered all over my Instagram feed before trying it and I’m happy to report it did not disappoint. The Iberico pork is incredibly tender and melts in the mouth. It’s definitely a more decadent, rich version of the classic which happens to be one of my favourite childhood meals growing up. There’s nothing better than a plate of rice topped with BBQ char siu. The spiced sugar skin is a special touch that gives Wun’s rendition a more luxurious feel. You could instantly tell a lot of love, time and effort went into this dish.
Iberico char sui
The claypot rice was probably our favourite dish of the night. Again, this is another humble Cantonese dish that you can often find at a dai-pai-dong or outdoor food market known for its no frills, cheap eats.
Beef cheek and bone marrow claypot rice with pickled shallots
Typically it’s made with everyday cuts of meat like Chinese sausage and chicken but Wun’s once again elevates the dish by using high end ingredients such as beef cheek and bone marrow. The flavours were bold and punchy. The pickled shallots helped cut the richness of the dish and gave it a nice balance. The best part, as is with any claypot rice, is the crispy rice ends scraped from the edges of the pot. The combination of tender beef, fragrant rice and crunchy tidbits throughout each bite made this an incredibly enjoyable dish. My friend who had never tried claypot rice before was an instant fan.
Claypot rice, Iberico char siu and Fried chicken
All in all, we were really impressed by the meal we had at Wun’s Tea Room & Bar. With the incredible Soho al fresco evening ambiance at the minute, why not choose a restaurant that also delivers top notch food and drink? There’s so much choice in the city these days but places like Wun’s offer something special beyond the ordinary day to day. While the menu may stray from your classic Cantonese offering, there are definitely elements that feel familiar. They’ve done a great job of taking some creative chances that pay off and elevated a lot of classic dishes with upscale ingredients and refined cooking technique. We’ll be sure to go back soon for a session downstairs in the bar and more claypot rice!
Disclaimer: Adrienne was a guest of the restaurant. All opinions are her own.
